As a starting surfer (yes, I still am) it can be quite tiring to surf. You can be in good spirits paddling, a minute later you’re washing away landing half drowned on the beach. And then you’ve been surfing for an hour without having been on the board. Yes, life as a starting surfer can be quite tiring. And here are a couple of reasons why.
1. You are only surviving
If you’re like me, then you’re basically only able to paddle (and not duck dive or do the turtle roll). If there then comes a mega wave, you can’t paddle over, then you’re indeed just surviving and you hope that you won’t drown (until you find out that you were only 5 metres away from the beach – I mean you could totally drown).
2. You are more a whale than a mermaid
In the beginning it will be reasonable, but later on you’re just getting too tired of just paddling. It is, to say the least, exhausting. And when you finally find the perfect wave spot (you’re lucky if you can as a beginner), you land on your board as a whale which means: not being able to move any more… Then you decide to bodyboard to the beach.
3. The board is mostly too heavy and big
As a beginner you start of course with riding a Longboard. A small board is good to start with but as a result, you’re tired long before you’ve even reached the sea. You gotta love it.
4. You are only eating salt
If there wasn’t already hair all over your face: the salt is really everywhere. In your nose, your eyes. You are constantly spitting, your eyes hurt and your wetsuit doesn’t dry without all the sant (but I guess every surfer has this problem, right? RIGHT?).
5. You regulary choose a wetsuit that’s too big
You still think a wetsuit isn’t suppose to be too tight (something with water in your suit come so you warms up) and buys or rent a way too large wetsuit. Not only are you cold, it hangs a few meters down your legs. Yes, kinda tiring.
6. You can’t recognize the good spots
You choose a quiet place because you are afraid that someone will surf over you or someone see you behaving like a whale. So you go to a quiet place to surf, which of course is not crowded for a reason: you end up getting into current and are – again – only paddling.
Of course you have to take it all with a grain of salt, that’s how we say it here in Holland, meaning don’t take it too seriously, this article. I like to surf, it’s the bomb, but hey every advantage has its disadvantage. I can not wait until I’m better at surfing. What do you think of surfing?